The Big Island of Hawaii is home to a revered volcano that holds significance for both spiritual followers and astronomers.
Shane Palacat-Nelsen speaks with awe as he recounts the legend of Poliahu, the snow goddess revered by Native Hawaiians who is said to reside on the peak of Mauna Kea, the tallest peak in Hawaii.
The story, passed down through Hawaiian families for many years, tells of a chief who desired to pursue Poliahu, but was prevented by her guards protecting the sacred peak of the mountain – a place where gods reside, the birthplace of all things, and a passage to the divine.
Currently, this majestic peak on the island of Hawaii is highly valued by astronomers as a gateway to uncovering the enigmas of the universe. This has led to differing opinions on the optimal course for Mauna Kea’s fate.
According to Palacat-Nelsen, the renowned leader was granted permission to reach the peak under the condition that he follow the footsteps of his escort up and down. This act symbolizes the need to preserve Mauna Kea from any additional interference, contamination, or damage caused by humans.
One must be summoned to ascend the holy mountain and should have a purpose before doing so.
The Mauna Kea volcano, standing at 14,000 feet, is currently inactive. According to Native Hawaiian beliefs, it is considered the eldest son of the sky and earth deities. Its arid climate and minimal light interference make it an ideal site for astronomical observation – a rarity worldwide.
In the last 50 years, astronomers have installed twelve large telescopes on the peak, resulting in significant findings such as confirming the presence of a supermassive black hole at the center of the Milky Way. This specific study was recognized with a Nobel Prize in Physics in 2020.
The increase in the number of observatories has caused concern among Native Hawaiians, who have resisted this development. They believe that the construction is damaging the sacred peak, harming the environment, and depleting natural resources. In 2019, numerous people gathered to demonstrate against a proposed Thirty Meter Telescope project worth $2.65 billion near the summit. This protest resulted in the passing of a state law that transferred control of the mountain to a new authority made up of both scientists and Native Hawaiian cultural experts.
Both sides are hesitant to reduce this argument to a clash between culture and science, as Hawaiian beliefs also value scientific observation of the world around us. Many astronomers also hold a deep respect for Hawaiian culture. While some observatory employees and cultural experts are trying to open up new lines of communication, bridging the large gap between the two sides will require challenging conversations and an effort to understand differing viewpoints.
The mountain holds sacred significance for many people.
According to legends, prayers, and chants, Mauna Kea shares the same origins as the Hawaiian people – Wakea and Papahanaumoku. It took over a million years for the tallest mountain on Earth, when measured from its base in the Pacific Ocean, to form after volcanic eruptions caused lava to rise from the ocean floor.
The peak reaches an impressive height of 13,796 feet (4,205 meters) above the ocean, creating a surreal sensation as puffy clouds surround its volcanic peaks and cover its reddish, almost otherworldly terrain. When the sky is clear, Mauna Loa, a highly active volcano, can be seen in the distance.
According to Kealoha Pisciotta, a cultural expert and activist, ascending Mauna Kea is comparable to unwrapping the layers of an onion. The mountain holds significant cultural sites, such as ceremonial platforms and ancestral burial grounds, as well as Hawaii’s only alpine lake, which is believed to have curative qualities.
She explains, “As you ascend, your heart is in closer proximity to the heavens. The gods are able to perceive, sense, and hear you. It is customary to maintain silence as we do not need to speak in the presence of the creator. We must listen instead.”
Building and bulldozing on or near the summit threatens the people’s sacred connection to the land, Pisciotta said. In her spiritual practice, she considers the mountain and all aspects of creation such as fish, coral, trees and animals to be like older siblings.
“When our ancestors and elder siblings are disrespected, it is a reflection of the disrespect towards us, our vitality, and our very being. This is why people are opposing the addition of more telescopes,” she explained.
According to Palacat-Nelsen, being a part of the working group that established the new authority, it is essential to safeguard the mountain and maintain the sanctity of its peak. This requires individuals to break out of their isolated ways of thinking and approach discussions with honesty and an open-minded attitude, even if it may be uncomfortable.
Searching the heavens for solutions.
John O’Meara, who relocated to Hawaii in order to take on the role of chief scientist at Keck just before the 2019 demonstration, is currently playing a crucial role in this conversation. He is gaining an understanding of the deep ties that many Native Hawaiians hold to Mauna Kea.
O’Meara is intrigued by the parallels between spirituality and astronomy.
He stated that we are essentially inquiring about the same things: our location, our origins, and our destination. There is a strong link to the universe that we should prioritize.
According to Doug Simons, who is in charge of the University of Hawaii’s Institute for Astronomy, the beginning of the Kumulipo, an ancient Hawaiian chant about creation, portrays a scenario that closely aligns with the theory of the Big Bang held by astronomers.
“When heat caused a change in the basic space/When the universe changed, reversing its state,” starts the recitation, as translated by Hawaiian language specialist Larry Kimura. It goes on a few lines later: “Thus began the primordial substance that formed physical space/The origin of impenetrable darkness, so deep/The origin of boundless energy, continually renewing itself.”
The recitation carries on for an additional 2,000 lines, describing the beginnings of coral, seaweed, fish, trees, and ultimately, humans.
Simons compares the Kumulipo’s depiction of a timeless, shadowy energy source from which all things arise to the concept of dark energy, which is believed by astronomers to have existed before the universe. Through analyzing the effects of dark matter on the shapes of galaxies, scientists are able to study and observe dark energy, which is responsible for the universe’s accelerated expansion.
Simons stated that Mauna Kea’s telescopes are leading the way in uncovering information about dark energy due to their exceptional image resolution.
This is a battle that encompasses both cultural and spiritual aspects.
At the age of nine, Lanakila Mangauil, a spiritual practitioner from Native Hawaiian descent, first ventured onto the mountain for snow activities at a lower altitude. His family never made it to the peak.
According to him, a significant aspect of spiritual practice on Mauna Kea is our lack of presence. We avoid being on the mountain because it holds sacred significance.
As a high school senior, he and two of his friends embarked on a journey to the top of the mountain for a ceremony. Along the way, they paused at altars, performed prayers near the upper cinder cones, and engaged in chants and dance as offerings.
Mangauil does not like to use the word “religion” to describe his spiritual practice. Hawaiians don’t have a central religion, he said, but spiritual practices born of different communities, families and environments.
He stated that our spiritual beliefs are not based on faith, but on knowledge. Our deities are representations of scientific observations.
According to Mangauil, understanding the deities of Mauna Kea means understanding the mountain’s environment and climate. Among these deities are Poliahu, the snow goddess and sister of Pele, the goddess of volcanoes who resides on neighboring Mauna Loa. Lilinoe is the deity of fine mist, while Waiau oversees the mountain’s underground reservoirs. Lake Waiau, associated with the god Kane, is a sacred site where some Native Hawaiians bury their children’s umbilical cords and use its water for healing and rituals. Mangauil observes important rituals on Mauna Kea, such as the summer solstice and a Makahiki ceremony in the fall, which marks the beginning of the Hawaiian new year.
This is also a political and cultural issue for younger Hawaiians like Mangauil who considers himself a product of the Hawaiian Renaissance. Prior generations lost their language as well as culture and religious practices after the U.S.-backed overthrow of the monarchy in 1893.
“We are repairing the bond between ourselves and the land that was broken by colonization.”
FINDING A WAY THROUGH DIALOGUE
Not all Native Hawaiians hold Mauna Kea sacred in a religious sense, including Makana Silva, an astronomer who grew up on Oahu and was raised Catholic. He is now a post-doctoral fellow at the Los Alamos National Laboratory in New Mexico studying black holes and gravitational waves, and visited Mauna Kea’s summit for the first time three years ago.
Although he holds his own religious convictions, he is confident that the mountain holds a concept known as “mana” by Hawaiians – the spiritual energy that exists throughout the world. Silva recounted a moment when he and his companion stood by Lake Waiau and experienced a sense of tranquility, quietness, and wonder.
He supports the growth of astronomy in the mountains to provide a space for Hawaiians to continue their tradition of progress.
Silva stated that it is our duty to pass on these new creations to future generations so that they can explore and experience things beyond our imagination.
The management of the mountain for astronomy purposes will primarily be determined by the Mauna Kea Stewardship and Oversight Authority, which has assumed responsibility from the University of Hawaii. This authority will make decisions regarding the renewal of the university’s 65-year lease for the summit lands, which is set to end in 2033, as well as subleasing for the lands used by all of the mountain’s telescopes.
Simon is worried about the potential outcome if the leases are not renewed promptly. According to the current master lease, the telescopes must be taken apart and the land they occupy must be returned to its original state by 2033 if the lease is not extended.
Simons expressed concern that if Mauna Kea astronomy is lost, it would have a devastating impact. This would result in a significant decrease in knowledge and prospects for aspiring astronomers in Hawaii.
Palacat-Nelsen is of the opinion that the presence of astronomy on the peak will continue for the foreseeable future. However, he does anticipate that the lease will be extended at a significantly higher cost compared to the current $1 per year paid by the University of Hawaii.
He stated that the best view comes at the best price that must be paid.
He remains optimistic about improving the relationship between the two groups. Recently, he extended an invitation to a small group of Keck astronomers and officials to visit his family’s sacred site or place of worship on the Big Island.
Keck’s temporary leader and a technical expert, Rich Matsuda, was a member of that team. He noted that the process of entering a holy place involves a significant amount of preparation, including leaving behind daily concerns and stresses, which can be difficult. Since then, he has continued to follow similar guidelines when making trips to the summit and believes they could benefit other telescope employees as well.
Palacat-Nelsen expressed optimism that the work of observatories will lead to increased awareness of humanity’s impact on Mauna Kea, similar to the wise chief who honored the snow goddess. He is thankful to his ancestors for protecting and caring for Mauna Kea, allowing present-day individuals to connect with its sacred nature. He ponders if he can also contribute to this preservation for future generations.
“Will they still speak of me in such a manner in 200 years?” he inquires. “I can only hope.”
___
The Associated Press’s coverage of religion is aided by its partnership with The Conversation US, funded by Lilly Endowment Inc. The AP is solely accountable for the material.
Source: wral.com